LABRUM London AW24 - designed by an immigrant: Journey of colours
The new AW24 collection from emerging fashion brand Labrum London pays tribute to the inspiring stories of immigrant artists who have overcome adversity and made significant contributions to art and fashion. Creative Director Foday Dumbuya designed this collection to celebrate the vibrant and diverse cultures brought by immigrants across continents throughout history.
Global textile techniques fuse in harmonious patchwork
The collection seamlessly incorporates a range of textile techniques from around the world including digital embroidery, patchwork, quilting, woven fabrics and screen-printing. Fabrics wrap and drape around the body, inspired by traditional techniques of adornment, resilience and survival. The Naimbana patchwork blazer serves as a symbol of the harmonious fusion of different cultures and heritages. Its improvised patchwork design and quilting highlights the rich cultural tapestry that has shaped Labrum London.
Silhouettes embrace the diversity of cultural identities
The range of silhouettes throughout the collection can be described as a 'Cultural Confluence', embracing the diversity of cuts, shapes and styles that come from the cross-pollination of cultural identities in the modern world. The accessories also pay homage to the journeys of courageous individuals seeking new beginnings, with a contemporary reinterpretation of how people would carry their belongings.
Bringing heritage and modernity together
By combining traditional techniques and contemporary elements, Labrum London demonstrates the beauty that emerges from the harmonious fusion of heritage and modernity. The collection reimagines African design as a vibrant, contemporary language for today's world. Creative Director Foday Dumbuya invites us to join the journey as Labrum redefines what it means to be an African fashion brand in the 21st century.
RESEARCH / INSPIRATION:
- Artist Man Ray
- Artists Eric N. Mac
- ‘Valley Curtain’ - Artists Christo & Jeanne-Claude
- ‘Lost & Found’ - Tom Kiefer, boarder protections janitor presented migrants seized belongings - Street Artist Dreph
- Nomadic tensile tents
- ‘Cross the River in a crowd’ - Nobukho Nqaba
- Pin research - Nomoli & Kple Kple mask
- Afghanistan Turkmens tribes - silk rap ikat design
- Burmese 1800s htamein - womenswear silhouette
Foday Dumbuya would like to give thanks to:
Styling by Mark Makanaka Mutyambizi @makanak_a
Casting by Jonathan Johnson @iamjonjohnson @jonjohnsonstudios
Hair by Nick Irwin with thanks to Schwarzkopf Professional
@nickirwinhair
@schwarzkopfpro #schwarzkopfprofessional #sessionlabel
@kim_howells
Make up by Jane Richardson at Gary Represents with thanks to The Ordinary @theordinary @garyrepresents @citizenjanes
Soundwork by Julianknxx with Paul Cousins and Tawiah @julianknxx @paulcousinsmusic @tawiah @studioknxx
Poem ‘When the Colours Spoke’ by Grace Nichols
Choir
Tobi Obisanya
Layla Ley
Jade Joseph
Deborah Osibodu
Niiella Dankwah-Coffie
Jabez Walsh
James Numbere
Footwear by
Adidas @adidaslondon @adidasoriginals
DrMartens @drmartensofficial
Headwear by Lucy Barlow @lucybarlow.hats
Patchwork & Quilting by Masha Guyard @madeinmash
Byborre - Engineered Knitted Lab @byborre
Moet & Chandon @moetchandon @ivanalostudio
British Fashion Council @britishfashioncouncil
Production @weare24.______
PR & Comms @b_theagency
Zak Group @zakgroupoffice
180 Studios @180.studios
LABRUM Team
@labrumlondon @iamfods
Abisola Akanni
Aneta Blanka Pejcharova
Damilola Ajani
Dina Ozorio Saldanha
Finlay West
Marcelle Agyapong
Nathan Carbon
Natalie Krauter
Rachael Adegoke
Tess Fontaine
Maiah Marriner
Thank you to my family for your continuous support and for keeping me grounded.
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