Dreaming Eli AW24 collection empowers women to embrace their bodies and sexuality

Dreaming Eli's empowered women take control of their bodies and sexuality in dramatic AW24 collection at London Fashion Week

Photo: Ines Bahr

The Dreaming Eli Autumn/Winter 2024 collection tells the tragic tales of beautiful, vulnerable women who are destroyed when their unchecked lust and desires drag them body and soul to their deaths. This serves as a metaphor for the repressive powers that Victorian Christian society held over young women's sexuality, viewing their desires as sinful and dangerous. Many Victorian poets like Keats agreed that "death is the mother of beauty" and romanticised the deaths of young women, treating them as passive aesthetic objects. 

However, the collection talks back against this narrative by portraying empowered, mystical women who confidently own their bodies and emotions. It echoes the rare stance of Victorian poet Christina Rossetti, whose dead female speakers talk back from beyond the grave. Dreaming Eli takes control of the narrative used to portray women as weak and transforms it into an act of empowerment.

Photo: Ines Bahr

The signature Dreaming Eli tailoring, corsetry, and lingerie aesthetics create female warriors who own their sexuality. Unique to this collection is the addition of more streetwear-inspired pieces like cropped hand-embroidered t-shirts paired with deconstructed denim upcycled from vintage Levi's. This mixes couture and ready-to-wear aesthetics in a new way for the brand. Stretch jersey stocking fabric brings a body-con look to sheer silhouettes. The tailoring has also evolved with ripped box jackets over moulded corseted shapes adorned with pearls and silk chiffon.

Photo: Ines Bahr

The metaphor of passively giving someone your heart transforms into women taking agency and letting their hearts live. By fiercely embracing life and sensuality, even if it leads to suffering and "death", the Dreaming Eli woman is reborn more powerful than ever. She embraces pain to then experience joy. The collection embodies women who confidently own their sexuality and emotions in defiance of repressive societal norms telling them to keep their desires hidden.

Photo: Ines Bahr

Photo: Ines Bahr

Styling by Matt King

Art Direction Consultancy by Arian De Vos

Design Assistants Caitlin O'Connor and Kolya Nicholas
Casting by Irene Manicone
Production by Antony Waller @ AW+C
Makeup by Sharryn Hinchliffe and the M·A·C PRO Team for @maccosmeticsUK

Hair by Aaron Firmstone for Bumble and Bumble
Nails by Hannah Bent for Mii Cosmetics
Photography by Ines Bahr

Music by Hasna Beats by PHUF lyrics by Elisa Trombatore

PR by IPR London

Sponsor Dormeuil UK

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